Biography
Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Messner (Funes, Bolzano, Italy, 17th September 1944), with his ascent to Lhotse in 1986, became the first man to conquer the 14 summits of more than eight thousand metres that exist on the planet. His first eight-thousander was Nanga Parbat in 1970 (which he ascended again in 1978). This was followed by Manaslu (1972), Hidden Peak/Gasherbrum I (1975 and 1984), Everest (without oxygen in 1978 and solo in 1980), K-2 (without oxygen, 1979), Sishapangma (1981), Kangchenjunga (1982), Gasherbrum II (1982 and 1984), Broad Peak (1982), Cho Oyu (1983), Annapurna (1985), Dhaulagiri (1985) and Makalu (1986), until he crowned Lhotse that same year, thereby conquering his fourteenth eight-thousander. He was commissioned to take one of the first photographs of the mummy known as “the Iceman”, found in a Similaun snowdrift, in the border area between Italy and Austria in 1991. Messner has also crossed Antarctica (1991-1992), the Taklamakan Desert in Bhutan, Greenland (1993) and the Gobi Desert (2004).
Between 1999 and 2004, he was a Member of the European Parliament for The Greens. He has written some fifty books, translated into a dozen languages, and participates in the making of documentaries. He was the founder of the Mountain Wilderness NGO, dedicated to the conservation of natural areas and, through the Messner Mountain Foundation, helps the inhabitants of mountainous areas around the world. He has also launched the Messner Mountain Museum, a project he has called his “fifteenth eight-thousander”, dedicated to the history of mountaineering. Headquartered in Bozen, in the Italian Tyrol, it has five other branches in the region.
Krzysztof Wielicki
Krzysztof Wielicki (Szklarka Przygodzicka, Poland, 1950) first took up mountaineering at 14 years of age in the Tatra Mountains, in his native Poland. Acknowledged as one of the most outstanding mountaineers in the world and a symbol of Polish mountaineering, Wielicki’s name is associated in the world of mountaineering with historical milestones such as having been the fifth man in the world to have conquered the planet’s 14 eight-thousanders and to having made the first ascents in winter to the summits of three mountains of over eight thousand metres in height: in 1980, he ascended to Mount Everest (8848 m), along with Leszek Cichy; to Kangchenjunga (8586 m) in 1986, along with Jerzy Kukuczka; and Lhotse (8516 m) solo in 1988. In 2018, he organized and led the expedition to K2 (8611 m), the only eight-thousander still to be conquered in winter, although the climb had to be suspended due to bad weather. During this attempt, Wielicki’s expedition featured in one of the so-called “Himalayan feats” in which solidarity and camaraderie emerge as the mainstays of this sport: the operation on Nanga Parbat to rescue Elisabeth Revol, whom they managed to save, and Tomek Mackiewicz, for whom they could do nothing.
In 1984, Wielicki made the first ascent in a single day to an eight-thousander, crowning Broad Peak, and that same year opened up a new route to climb Manaslu. In 1993, he ascended Shisha Pangma solo via a new route.
In addition to his achievements as a climber, his sports colleagues highlight his values as a human being, his companionship and his leadership skills when faced with challenges in the mountains. At almost 70 years of age, Wielicki dedicates a large part of his time to spreading the values of mountaineering and to advising practitioners of this sport on techniques and strategies to follow in the mountains. He is the author or co-author of several books. He is a member of The Explorers Club, an international company based in New York founded in 1904 with the aim of promoting exploration and field research, and was awarded the Lowell Thomas Prize in 2006.
Eight-thousander
Reinhold Messner
- Nanga Parbat 8125m (1970 & 1978)
- Manaslu 8156m (1972)
- Gasherbrum I 8068m (1975 & 1984)
- Everest 8848m (1978 & 1980)
- K-2 8611m (1979)
- Shishapangma 8046m (1981)
- Kangchenjunga 8598m (1982)
- Gasherbrum II 8035m (1982 & 1984)
- Broad Peak 8048m (1982)
- Cho Oyu 8153m (1983)
- Dhaulagiri 8167m (1985)
- Annapurna 8091m (1985)
- Makalu 8451m (1986)
- Lhotse 8511m (1986)
Krzysztof Wielicki
- Fifth man to have conquered 14 eight-thousanders
- Everest 8848m (1980)
- Broad Peak 8048m (1984)
- Manaslu 8156m (1984 & 1992)
- Kangchenjunga 8598m (1986)
- Makalu 8451m (1986)
- Lhotse 8511m (1988)
- Dhaulagiri 8167m (1990)
- Annapurna 8091m (1991)
- Cho Oyu 8153m (1993)
- Shishapangma 8046m (1993)
- Gasherbrum II 8035m (1995 & 2006)
- Gasherbrum I 8068m (1995)
- K-2 8611m (1996)
- Nanga Parbat 8125m (1996)
Minutes of the Jury
At its meeting in Oviedo, the Jury for the 2018 Princess of Asturias Award for Sports, composed of Alberto Borregán Rodríguez, Vicente del Bosque González, Emilio Butragueño Santos, Marisol Casado Estupiñán, Cristina Cubero Alcalde, Isabel Fernández Gutiérrez, Joaquín Folch-Rusiñol Corachán, Ernest Folch i Folch, Andrea Fuentes Faché, Patricia García Rodríguez, Joan Llaneras Roselló, Edurne Pasabán Lizarribar, Alfredo Relaño Estapé, Juan Antonio Samaranch Salisachs, Theresa Zabell Lucas, chaired by Abel Antón Rodrigo and with Julián Redondo Pérez acting as secretary, has unanimously decided to bestow the 2018 Princess of Asturias Award for Sports on climbers Reinhold Messner and Krzysztof Wielicki for their unparalleled sports careers and their contribution to the history of mountaineering.
Reinhold Messner, the first man to conquer the summits of the 14 eight-thousanders (the world's highest summits) without artificial oxygen, and Krzysztof Wielicki, the first to climb 3 eight-thousanders in winter, are an honour to this sport and an example of the will to overcome.
Their work of a social and humanitarian nature and in spreading the values of mountaineering has made them an example for humanity. Their deeds will remain in the memory of future generations.
Oviedo, 16th May 2018